Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
